Tues. July 1/14 Entre-os-Rios to Regua, and then Pinhao for the night

Early this morning we set sail for Regua our morning docking address.  The river seemed narrow and we passed the Carrapatelo Dam, the deepest lock in Europe.  The country side was intriguing with lush vineyards, horizontal and vertical, and gorgeous structures among them.  The alluring image of Sandeman beckoned.  

Bark stripped cork trees

Once at Regua we boarded a bus for a short drive to the Museu do Douro for a Signature Lecture called "The Magic Duoro Valley."  This was an education to say the least.  In 2001 the Alto Douro Vinhateiro, this area that produces the unique Port Wine, was declared a World Heritage Site by Unesco.  "It is the perfect combination of nature and human effort, that accounts for the beauty of this landscape of terraces and vineyards."  Nothing like it in the world.  The huge demarcated area produces mainly Port wines but also red and white table wines.  It was probably Roman Soldiers who first planted grapes in the Duoro Valley but British Merchants are credited for the discovery of Port.  At war with France they could not import French wines in the 17th century so turned to Portugal.  The British added brandy to preserve the grape juice for shipment to Britain and to remove some of the wine's bite.  Famous names such as Taylor's, Graham's,Cockburn's and Sandeman's date from this era. We learned about all aspects of production in this valley and about the types of Port.  It was no easy task but over centuries the vineyards have persevered, perhaps evolved but the hardiness of it all is evident.  The soil here is rocky,  the river was wild and the history  is fascinating.  It reminded me of the ruggedness of logging in Canada!  

Regua, our boat far in the background

A lecture but not boring! 

hands on museum 

Port Boat used to transport barrels down the wild river

Queen Isabella repositioned 

While we were at the museum the boat refueled  and repositioned ready to receive us for lunch. Then we boarded the bus again for a tour of the famous Mateus Palace followed by a visit to the Wine Estate Quinta Da Avessada including dinner.  Does this sound like a busy day or what? 

I had a fuzzy memory of Mateus Wine from my youth but let me tell you it is something that will stay with me clearly now.  What a gorgeous palace, the one that is famously depicted on a bottle of Mateus rose wine.  It is still owned by descendants of the last count of Vila Real and is a fine example of baroque architecture and a glimpse into the life of Portuguese aristocracy.  No photos inside. The gardens are incredible!  

After the tour of Mateus Palace we boarded the bus for a visit and meal at the Wine Estate called Quinta Da Avessada. 
Our bus took us to a small hilltop town called Favaois which we learned had zero unemployment because everyone worked together for the family who owns the Quinta.

 Once off the bus we met with a very entertaining and witty gentleman who was one of the family and he walked us through town to the bakery.  The town was quite rustic and quaint at the same time.

 Once at the bakery we were serenaded and squeezed into a small shop which felt like going back in time.  The smells!  The mother daughter team making the bread were very deft at rolling and throwing the small loaves.  

What a treat to then taste the bread with butter and their homemade preserves accompanied of course by the wine produced at the Quinta.  http://www.discoverdourovalley.com/content/enoteca-douro-quinta-da-avessada/dou1D94B13643B48DD8B

Check out the website above for more on this incredible place!
After our treat we boarded the bus for a short drive to the Quinta Da Avessada which was beautiful.  Our musicians met us there and were joined by others.  

What a festive atmosphere outside these gorgeous stone buildings at the top of the mountain with vineyards stretched out all around! Appetizers and wine (of course) were served before we went on a tour of the wine museum and then sat down for dinner.  

Better pictures of the museum can be seen on the website.  

The atmosphere here was incredible.  Our host was quite a story teller and comedian.  In between courses he told funny and interesting tales about this Quinta and the region.  If you enlarge the picture below you may see how animated he was.  John is not hiding his face but is turned to watch.  This was a sensational evening and a great ending to a fascinating day!  

When we got back to the ship it had moved to Pinhao a tiny village at the confluence of the Douro and Pinhao Rivers.  The winding mountain roads were a bit scary but beautiful.  Though the roads were small they were paved and well maintained and the bus drivers skilled.  The town apparently comes to life during the harvest in the fall when pickers arrive from all over the country.