Saturday, March 28, 2009










Manatee Springs State Park, Florida


We drove about 4 hours North West from Lakeland to arrive at this State Park 6 miles west of Chiefland. The large spring here empties into the Suwannee River which goes to the Gulf. The amount of water coming out of this spring daily is mind-boggling! It creates a large area of clear blue water that is constantly 72 degrees and it flows to the river through a pre-historic looking forest of mainly bald cypress trees.






The Suwannee is wide at this point but maybe it is all along. (Way Down upon the Suwannee River!) We are about half an hour drive from the Gulf.

We have not seen any Manatees yet in the clear deep water of the spring. They were here 5 days ago but the river has warmed up with the hot weather so they have likely moved on. They come into the spring when the water temperature elsewhere is below 66 Fahrenheit. Sturgeon (a giant fish) is seen here too but our luck seems to have missed them as well. The spring makes a great swimming area but the water is “refreshing”. Of course children are impervious to it. Beginning April 1st you can put your kayak into the spring but not now in case manatees are in there. We could kayak on the Suwannee but it is a long haul along the boardwalk to put in. We may try another area not far from here.

There is a sink hole not far from the spring that we can see from our campsite called Catfish Hotel. It is covered in duck weed and you can imagine our surprise when we saw scuba divers going in it! Divers go into the spring too but that is more understandable. We walked the path to see what was going on and it turns out it is a favourite diving spot. The hole accesses miles of caves and is as deep as 75 feet! The springs are formed when limestone acts as an aquifer and becomes like Swiss cheese holding rain water and shooting it out in a spring. There are over 600 springs in Florida of all sizes, more than anywhere in the world and also some of the biggest in the world.

There are huge cypress trees here in the forest from the spring to the river, a distance of about 900 feet. Of course the shores of the rivers and many waterways in Florida and Georgia are abundant with cypress. But I have never seen them as big as they are here. The knees are quite a sight and deer are grazing among them. Knees are actually root projections that act as stabilizers I guess because they grow in or near water and swampy areas. They really do look like knobby knees. You can tell that the water level is quite low, maybe from the drought which has been quite severe in Florida for 3 years. But we have also been told it is tide affected even this far from the Gulf. More information needed!

I’m not sure how big Chiefland is but it has a Super Wal-Mart. “Who cares” some of you are saying? Well Super Wal-Mart is an RV-er’s dream. It seems like this area is less affluent than Lakeland. But we are off the beaten path and these remote areas remind me a bit of Northern Ontario. There is lots of wilderness around here and many preserves, reserves and scrubs nearby. I am not sure of the designations of the wilderness. It’s all part of the learning experience in the landscape of Florida.

Oh, almost forgot to mention the diamond in the rough! The Chiefland Golf Course is a couple of miles down the road and for a fair price walked 18 holes of wonderful golf. I shot my best round of the season!

Cedar Key

We drove about 27 miles today toward the Gulf and an area called Cedar Key. It is like an Intracoastal Waterway, looking very much like the salt marshes of the barrier Islands along the Atlantic Coast. There is a National Wildlife Refuge there which consists of 12 offshore Islands. Another area there is Cedar Scrub consisting of ancient coastal dunes. But we went to the town called Cedar Key. I am not sure if today was typical but it was reminiscent of Grand Bend on a long weekend. We were amazed at the number of “bikers.” Most of them were older than us and the bikes ranged from Harleys to BMWs but they were colourful, big and expensive looking. Many of the riders were also colourful and expensive looking! Likely doctors and lawyers but they looked like old hippies in their gear.

Cedar Key has water front restaurants, boutiques and accommodations. Old run down docks and buildings are home to unique stores and restaurants but some are in a state of disrepair and only the pelicans are in residence.






There are also newer buildings intermingled. It is difficult to describe the atmosphere but it was worth the visit. We had lunch at Tony’s downtown on the recommendation of a local we met at the waterfront. The clam chowder was the best John has ever tasted and even I ate a small bowl of it. I normally don’t eat clam chowder!












The Forest/Manatee/Bike Trail/Jump in the Spring and “signs of”:

When I woke up early this morning I came down to read in the living room leaving you know who to sleep. I was struck by the beauty of sitting in the comfort of my “home on wheels” in the middle of a forest. It had rained quite hard last night (much needed) and everything was fresh and clean. Once the sun got higher in the trees I couldn’t resist another walk to the spring and out on the boardwalk to the mouth where it flows into the Suwannee. And it was worth it! Once I got over my fear of being so close to buzzards I saw a manatee lazing around in the exceptionally clear water.





The morning conditions made the water at the end of the walkway very clear for some reason, more so than at other times of day. At night we have been hearing loud hooting and lots of it. No, it is not party people! At first we thought it was coyotes but turns out to be owls, screech, I think. It was quite an eerie sound and I am glad to have the shelter of the Cedar Creek at night especially when night sounds are so loud! I love not camping!

There is a large network of paved trails in Florida for biking, hiking, roller-blading, and some allow horse back riding. We drove to a trail head about 6 miles away and biked 8 miles and back, the distance we do in Sanlan to Bartow and back. We crossed an old trestle rail bridge over the Suwannee. I wish there had been foresight in Ontario to convert more of the obsolete railway tracks to such excellent recreational use.











I became determined to jump in the spring today. The water is 72 degrees and in 80 degree air felt a little chilly. John thought it was too cold for him. But it felt wonderful and if we were not leaving tomorrow I would do it daily. I felt a bit small and insignificant in there.














It is a spring of the “First Magnitude” after all. Also, the nearby snake coiled on the bank, the turtles, the strange plants and the fish swimming around made me a little fearful. But I did it and wish I had done it more.

There is an ambitious cardinal hanging around trying to mate with the trailer. Okay, maybe he thinks he’s attacking another cardinal. For 2 days now he’s been flying into the windows, no doubt at his reflection. Also, Carolina Wrens are attempting to build a nest under the front in the large hitch that goes into the hitch in the truck bed! I guess we have stayed too long now that the birds are nesting! Onward: to Ft. Clinch.


Amelia’s Secrets

Today we met Maggie Carter-de Vries, the author of an historical novel called “Amelia’s Secrets”. We spent part of the day exploring Fernandina Beach, the historic town on Amelia Island. Going in and out of the boutique type stores and biking around the historic homes reminded me of a southern version of Niagara on the Lake. Maggie Carter-de Vries was in one of the book stores signing copies of her latest book. I have never heard of her or read any of her books but could not resist the opportunity to read a novel of historical accuracy with a murder mystery twist by a local. I love exploring the culture and history of places we visit and this is a perfect way to do it. I have already started the book and I am hooked.

We are staying at Fort Clinch State Park only a 6 mile bike ride to downtown Fernandina Beach. A couple of years ago, on our first RV voyage with the Sundance, we visited this area and have wanted to come back. Unfortunately Fort Clinch State Park (yes there is a fort here) is small and popular with one section of the campground on the Ocean and the other on the River. We are in the River campground. The washrooms are high end for a State Park! We were only able to book in for 2 nights. We will try to reserve ahead next year for a week. The idea of staying in the Ocean campground is appealing but it would be very windy. The River side is part of the Intracoastal and is fascinating as well so either would be nice.

There is much more exploring to be done here and we would like to do a kayaking excursion. It would be good to have a guided tour before trying this kind of kayaking on our own. The tides seem mysterious and we wouldn’t want to get stranded in the tidal flats or stuck in strong currents! We did walk out on the longest fishing pier I have ever seen. It is ½ a mile long! The Atlantic is churned up and brownish, unlike the crystal Caribbean water but it has a rugged kind of appeal. We have seen several swimmers but I think they are brave or crazy to be swimming right now. It has been windy and the water temperature is low 60’s.

From here you can see Cumberland Island, the Natural Federal Reserve where we visited the wild horses last year. St. Mary’s Georgia is our next stop and it is visible from here as well. Only an hour drive will get us there before going to Laura S. Walker State Park and then Jekyll. From Jekyll you can see Cumberland on a clear day; these places are all connected by the Intracoastal Waterway and the salt marshes that we have come to love.

Last night we enjoyed a campfire on this beautiful wooded sight. It is our first campfire for some time. I think many places have a fire ban due to the drought and of course Sanlan is not a campfire type of park. Just the smell of it gave me a wonderful feeling. I do love camping!























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